A Bowl of Grief: Food, Belonging, and Identity in Romesh Dissanayake's Debut Novel

This week, we’re diving into a book that I read in August 2024, Romesh Dissanayake’s When I Open the Shop - a lyrical and tender exploration of grief, identity, and those small but monumental moments that shape our sense of home. The story follows Devendra, a Sri Lankan-Koryo Saram immigrant in Wellington, who opens a noodle shop after his mother passes away. But this isn’t your typical linear narrative. Just like grief itself, Dissanayake’s novel ebbs and flows, refusing to follow a straightforward path.

The book is split into three sections, with Part I offering a quiet reflection on the everyday realities of loss. Devendra handles his mother’s funeral arrangements as if it were just another job, and the understated prose reflects the kind of numbness that often follows a significant loss. It’s subtle but effective—capturing that in-between state of being where everything feels paused. The pace quickens in Part II, as we delve deeper into Devendra and his mother’s journey to Aotearoa, highlighting the challenges of immigration with such tender and vivid details.

Then, in a surprise move halfway through Part II, the novel shifts into a sequence of poems called The Island. This sudden change might throw you off at first, but it soon becomes clear that the storm in the poems mirrors Devendra’s internal struggle. It’s a bold choice, but one that works I think, adding an extra layer of depth to the narrative without feeling out of place.

Without giving too much away, Part III shows Devendra’s gradual healing. Dissanayake doesn’t rush this process, allowing grief to unfold naturally, as Devendra starts to rebuild a life shaped by both his loss and his growth.

One of the novel’s standout themes is identity. Devendra’s experience as a Sri Lankan immigrant in New Zealand and his place within the BIPOC community is woven into every part of the story. It’s not just about grief—it’s about the complexity of belonging, and navigating life in spaces that aren’t always built for you.

If you’re from Wellington, you’re in for a treat. The book is filled with local references that bring the city to life. And the food! When I Open the Shop is packed with mouth-watering descriptions of dishes, in a way that reminded me of Crying in H Mart. There’s a beautiful scene where Devendra remembers making carrot salad with his mother while his ancestors look on. In that moment, food becomes more than just sustenance—it’s a connection to memory, culture, and healing.

If you are looking to try something a little different, When I Open the Shop is the book for you! This book is ultimately about finding your place in world. Add this one to your cart (support NZ authors!) because life is too short to read bad books.